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Last August, thousands of Prague residents were forced to evacuate their homes after some of the worst floods in the city’s history. Making a spirited comeback, Prague is gearing up for this spring and summer with its enticing tourist attractions and a wide range of cultural activities surely to captivate any visitor.
Following in the footsteps of actors before him, Hollywood’s Hugh Jackman donned a dark-flowing cloak and made his way into the eerie night. In his latest role, his character would have the harrowing task of fighting the forces of evil in a fictitious Central European land. The setting for such a treacherous tale would call for a location that would be mysterious yet beautiful for filming Universal’s, Van Helsing, based on Bram Stoker’s infamous vampire hunter. This past winter, Prague, the capital of the Czech Republic, with its magical mixture of architecture, hidden walkways and breathtaking views, became the perfect backdrop for the outdoor locations of this huge 19th century action thriller.
In recent years, Prague has increasingly become the location of choice for some of the West’s most prominent filmmakers. But movie moguls are not only ones lured by the charms of the Czech capital as approximately three million tourists visit Prague every year. This spring and summer, the city has several superb festivals guaranteed to impress music lovers. With its winding cobblestone streets, medieval towers, elegant music halls, castles and dazzling rivers, it is no wonder that travelers continue to be captivated by Prague.
For a country steeped in art, music, movies and theatre, perhaps it is no surprise that the country has been governed for the last 13 years by a former playwright and revolutionary. With his relentless resolve, notorious integrity and sense of drama, Vaclav Havel, the former President of the Czech Republic, steered his country through the rough waters of transition from communism to democracy. Taking office after the peaceful overthrow of the communists in the Velvet Revolution of 1989, Havel moved his country, Czechoslovakia, (the name used from 1918 to 1992) away from membership in the Warsaw Pact to the Czech Republic’s entry into Nato. Currently, the Czech Republic is on board to join the European Union in spring 2004. Perhaps more universally admired abroad than at home, there is no doubt that Vaclav Havel, who stepped down as President in February, was the star ambassador who boosted his nation’s international profile.
For those who visit Prague this year, be sure to take comfortable footwear. The Czech capital is undoubtedly a walking city as much of historical center is pedestrianized. Strolling around is the best way to discover the many layers of the city with its hidden passageways, gardens, Gothic lanes and gorgeous views that would be missed otherwise. Tourists will want to focus their attention on the main historical areas namely, Hradcany with Prague Castle, Lesser Town, the Old Town, Josefov and the New Town during their stay.
Begin your journey at the famous 14th century Charles Bridge, which extends across the city’s Vltava River. Essentially unscathed by the August 2002 floods, the statue-lined bridge unites Prague’s two most popular tourist havens of Old Town and Lesser Town. King Charles IV, for whom the bridge is named, undoubtedly put Prague on the medieval map. In his day in the 1300s, Prague was the largest metropolis in Europe.
Make your way from the Charles Bridge to the Lesser Town (Mala Strana) district, looking out for Kampa Island and Church of St. Nicholas, to arrive at the well-maintained Baroque-styled Nerudova Street. While you are hiking up this steep street, gaze up at the house signs, which give insight into the vocations of the street’s past residents. At the top of the hill, take a well-deserved break at the rampart leading to the Prague Castle, and enjoy the grand red-roofed view of the whole capital.
A trip to the Prague Castle complex, in the center of the Hradcany district should be at the top of every traveler’s itinerary. Go early or later to avoid the crowds, allowing at least half a day for your visit. As the official residence of the Czech president, Prague Castle reflects the city’s 1000-year history. According to Time Out Prague, Vaclav Havel, always a dramatist, contracted the costume designer from the movie, Amadeus, to jazz up the Castle guard’s uniforms for its changing of the guards’ ceremony. In the Old Royal Palace, the Bohemian Chancellery is tribute to the country’s Austro-Hungarian imperial past and where many a victim in the 1600s met their fate by being thrown out the windows. The next stop is surely the main attraction for visitors to the Castle. St. Vitus’ Cathedral has been known as Bohemia’s sacred place of worship throughout Prague’s long history, according to Time Out Prague. (The region on which the Czech nation stands today has been historically known as Bohemia.) Since its inception, the Cathedral has passed through many hands, thus reflecting the Gothic to neo-Gothic styles on the inside and the Baroque dome. Marvel at the 21 colorful stained glass windows, which adorn the Cathedral’s interior and be sure not to miss the steeple of St. Vitus’ Cathedral for fabulous views of the city. Prague’s literary great, Franz Kafka, stayed for a time at blue cottage number 22 on Golden Lane. This street of cottages is a good spot to refuel, stock up on souvenirs such as Bohemian glassware, wooden toys and postcards. Lastly, while in the Hradcany, don’t miss one of the most elaborately decorated Baroque churches in Prague, the Loreto.
For the heart of the city where good dining spots, slick bars, cozy cafes and great shopping abound head to Prague’s Old Town (Stare Mesto) district. It also is the continuation of the Royal Route and home of the Old Jewish Cemetery. The Old Town Square has a real medieval even spooky feel to it, perhaps stemming back to its history of executions and the burning of martyrs at the stake at this site. For another outstanding view of the city, take the elevator up or trek to the viewing platform at the top of The Old Town Hall’s medieval clock tower.
Leading out from the Old Town Square is the former Jewish Town, the Josefov Quarter. This area has many treasured synagogues, one of which is the Old-New Synagogue, the oldest standing building of its kind in central Europe. Considered as a memorial to Jews from Bohemia and Moravia, the Pinkas Synagogue contains names of the more than 80,000 Jews who died in concentration camps.
Nove Mesto, or the New Town of Prague, dates back to the 14th century. The district’s focal point is Wenceslas Square, the main artery of the area. This Square has been the stage for Nazis, communist and anti-communist uprisings during the country’s turbulent history. Today, its wide boulevards are bustling with shoppers flaunting their latest capitalistic purchases. Passing by Palac Koruna, on Vaclavske namesti, music lovers shouldn’t miss Bontonland Megastore, one of the first Western-type music megastores in Eastern Europe.
If all the sightseeing has made you thirsty or hungry, be sure to sample some of the best food Prague has to offer. As the number one consumers of beer per capita in the world, the Czechs are serious about their Pilsener. Czech cuisine is on the substantial side with its solid staples of delicious dumplings, goulash and potatoes. In recent years, American, Greek and Italian restaurants have emerged on the scene so if you cannot bear the heartiness of another plate of goulash, alternative fare is readily available. Overall, the service in Prague is somewhat variable. While English and German are widely spoken, a little courtesy goes a long way. A friendly greeting of good day in Czech, ‘dobry den’, and a thank you, ‘dekuji’ will most always guarantee a warm welcome. Kolkovna restaurant on V Kolkovne 8, in the Old Town has excellent Czech and Italian fare at reasonable prices. At night, it is filled with Pilsner Urquell-guzzling patrons taking in the lively but unpretentious atmosphere. Sample the nicely-presented beef goulash with potato cakes, followed by a scrumptious pear strudel. Art Nouveau fans with bucks to burn will enjoy dining at the elegant concert hall, the Municipal House’s, Francouzska Restaurace. The House’s café and slick American Bar downstairs is less formal with nice ambience as well. For snacks and more, Bakeshop Praha has tasty cakes, savory sandwiches and delicious breads with an American twist. As for dinner, Prague is beautiful by day but truly magical at night, so for the most stunningly romantic waterfront views dine at the swish Kampa Park restaurant.
In terms of talent, concert halls and top quality performances, Prague is a classical music and opera lover’s dream. Mozart loved Prague and hence debuted his Don Giovanni here. The city has three astounding opera theaters and several orchestras offering a tremendous scope of options for all music aficionados. This spring, the 58th Prague Spring International Music Festival is undoubtedly the highlight of the year. “The Spring Festival is the biggest, oldest and most respected classical music festival in Europe with high quality performers,” said Katerina Pavlitova, director of the U.S.A. Czech Tourist Authority in New York City. From symphonies to jazz to chamber music, the Festival attracts some of the world’s best guest conductors and musicians. Big names for this year’s Festival include Grammy Award-winning conductor, Michael Tilson Thomas with the San Francisco Symphony. Another major draw is the Orchestre National de France conducted by Kurt Masur. For more information, go to www.festival.cz. Further afield, check out the August International Music Festival at www.czechmusicfestival.com.
Last but not least, opera fans will get a rare treat in Prague from August 19 to September 1 for the Verdi Festival. With daily opera performances at the magnificent State Opera, this year’s program includes La Traviata, Nabucco and Un Ballo in Maschera. Bear in mind that all the big symphony, orchestra and opera companies in Prague close down in July and August for holiday so this is the only chance to see opera in summertime.
While the upcoming festivals are the best opportunity for classical music fans to discover Prague’s vast wealth of talent at the most magnificent venues, there are plenty of other activities to spur the varied interests of every visitor. From its lively pubs, spectacular riverside views to its fairytale-like historic center, Prague is sure to leave a lasting impression on its visitors. With a long history stretching 1000 years, travelers will undoubtedly continue to enjoy uncovering the many layers of this magical city in the heart of Europe for years to come.
For more general information about Prague, go to www.prague-info.cz.
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