Issue One

Risotto on any menu shows that someone in the kitchen has been working. Stirring. Laboring. Risotto is not a dish you cover and walk away from, as a good risotto demands constant attention: a chef in a caring mood.

Risotto is puffy swollen rice that when combined with anything (the fresher the better) brings the chef a flavorful satisfying side or main-dish. The rice used for Risotto is different from regular rice because the kernels are thickly layered with starch. The starch dissolves as it cooks, sticks to the rice and whatever you’re cooking with–squash, tomatoes, asparagus, herbs, seafood or cheese. The only way to get the starch to loosen and cling with the ingredients is to add the hot liquid gradually and give it lots of constant friction. Stirring. It is a fact that there is no shortcut. The labor, the repetition of the friction is a must. If you add your ingredients, cover and walk away, all you will end up with is rice and something else. For it to be risotto, it needs your hand. This is not rice "and" tomatoes. This is the Risotto.

If you’re in possession of some extra did-not-make-the-canning-process tomatoes, may we suggest a nice tomato risotto? Just any tomatoes will not do. The kind of tomatoes we’re talking about are ripe, firm and sweet. Any shape will do as long as they have a good meaty existence.

How will you peel them (because you know you must)? There are two ways, and one is better than the other. The best way is by hand. Remember this is a labor of caring. A good sharp vegetable peeler or knife (a swivel-bladed peeler works the best) will do. Oh, you could scald them, but why water down the flavor that took so long to develop in the garden?

FRESH TOMATO RISOTTO {4 servings}

5 cups hot homemade meat broth

4 tablespoons of butter

1/3 cup chopped onion

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 1/2 pounds of tomatoes (peeled-see side note for scalding)

Salt and pepper

1 1/2 cups carnaroli, vialone, nano or Arborio rice

1/2 cup grated (fresh) parmesan cheese

About 8-10 basil leaves thin strips.

In medium saucepan, bring the broth to a boil: keep the broth at a simmer over low heat. In large saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons of butter with the onion and the oil. Cook over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until the onion turns pale gold. Add the tomatoes and pinch of salt and pepper. Cook. Stir occasionally for 10 minutes.

Add the rice and stir to thoroughly coat the grains. Add 1/2 cup of the simmering broth to the rice and stir constantly. Stir until the liquid is absorbed. Adjust the heat if needed to keep the simmer. Add more broth, gradually, 1/2 cup at a time and cook, stirring the rice to prevent it from sticking. The rice is done when it is firm but tender without a chalk center.

Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter, the cheese and the basil and stir for 2 minutes longer. Season with salt and pepper and serve at once with a bottle of light, crisp white wine and a good Italian bread.

RISOTTO RULES

Keep the cooking liquid simmering in a separate pan.

If you started with butter, you must end with butter.

If you started with olive oil, you must end with olive oil.

Use a wooded spatula, straight edge for better friction.

It is recommended to use broth (not stock) as the liquid. Stock has a stronger taste. Meat broth is said to be the best for non-seafood risottos. Use plain water for seafood risotto or if using clams or mussels you can use their filtered juices. You can also use the blanching water from any vegetables in the risotto.

TO SCALD TOMATOES:

Wash tomatoes. Core them. Put in boiling water. When skin splits, remove with tongs and place the tomatoes in a strainer. When cooled, or using the tongs, remove the skin.

Scalding them is a time-saving canning method. For a taste of summer in the dead of winter, scalded, skinless tomatoes can be placed in the freezer to add to winter sauces and chili dishes.

RICE:

Carnaroli, arboria or vialone nano. Arborio is usually easier to get and less expensive than carnaroli.